Astrid, Stelle, Sole: A Cosmic Journey

Thoughts around 2020, a return to early Italian studies & new cosmic jewels

In looking forward to 2020, I was optimistic. The number itself boded well—the idea of clarity, perfect vision. I was working on special design projects, enjoying the balance and enthusiasm of one of the best groups of colleagues that I had ever worked with.

Then arrived the Novel Coronavirus. I was in Italy when it first started but didn’t pay much mind when my temperature was checked upon landing in Milan in early February. I proceeded to Florence to work with my goldsmiths as usual.

 

Shortly after heading home, the pandemic escalated, jumped borders and oceans, and we were forced to shut down, and hunker down at home. That was early March, now we’re heading into fall and not much has changed.

Pandora opening her fateful box, Greek 500BC

The year 2020, to use a classic mythological reference, is a veritable Pandora’s Box. A societal perfect storm of virulence has been released, swirling unchecked, affecting our health, our government, and the way we treat each other and embrace all of the magnificent differences and diversity that make us human.

Protected by mask & amulet Protected by mask & amulet

Plague doctor during Middle Ages

The situation is mostly incomprehensible. In an attempt to find solace and understanding during this time, my thoughts have often gone back to my early Italian studies of literature and art history— storytelling from 14th century Italy. Around 1347, among precious gems, textiles, and spices, a not so welcome import was transported from east to west along the Silk Road—the Bubonic Plague or so-called Black Death. This pandemic landed in Italy and then spread throughout Europe, killing off 1/3 of the population.

Just before, during, and after the Plague, artists, scientists, scholars, and poets continued on. Some notable figures succumbed to the pandemic; others escaped. And it makes me hopeful to remember that the Florentine Renaissance was in full swing only 50 years later—especially given that fifty years in the 14th century is comparable to a much shorter stretch of time in our digital age, a relative blink in history. When I think of that period’s relevance to today, three particular works come to mind: Siennese painter Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s frescos depicting The Allegory and Effects of Good & Bad Government (1339), Giovanni Boccaccio’s Decameron (1353), and Dante Alighieri’s narrative poem, The Divine Comedy (1320).

When we are permitted to travel again, I highly recommend making your way to the Palazzo Pubblico, Siena’s town hall, to spend time contemplating Lorenzetti’s fresco series (until then, look them up online). Study the details. The lessons are remarkably timeless. The frescoes were created as a reminder to the rulers of Siena of their responsibility to be good and just. In fact, the nine rulers of Siena, who ruled as a group, were only allowed to hold office for two months at a time so as to avoid corruption or abuse of power.

Effects of good government in the city – Ambrogio Lorenzetti 1338

 In Lorenzetti’s depiction of the effects of good government, the walls of the city are swung open to a healthy and prosperous countryside that is being cultivated and harvested. Inside the city, there is a flourishing of art, commerce and learning. The figure that represents Peace is pictured in a relaxed, lounging position since under good government she need not fear. Tranquility and balance reign.

Peace - Detail of allegory of good government - Ambrogio Lorenzetti 1338

Ruler - Detail of allegory of bad government - Ambrogio Lorenzetti 1338

Meanwhile, a devilish-looking tyrannical figure is central to the representation of bad government. The city’s walls are closed. The buildings are deteriorating. The countryside is on fire. There is famine, sickness and suffering.

My work in jewelry may not be directly influenced by the storytelling of these frescos but my mind and thoughts, a sort of interior workshop, certainly are. There are many ways to look at art, whether a painting, sculpture or poem. I find the depiction of good and bad poignant. We humans do know the difference, but unfortunately are sometimes pulled down the wrong path by individual desire. In the midst of crisis, it’s all the more essential that we heed the warnings embedded in Lorenzetti’s frescos, and turn toward the path of balance and peace. Aesthetically, these frescoes offer viewers across the centuries a study in the details, particularly the textiles, the colors, the details in gold leaf, the architecture and the depiction of nature. In the face of widespread suffering, the fact that Lorenzetti took the time to honor these details is a lesson in itself. Art and beauty deserve our focus as a source of healing, and I for one have such a desire to witness live performances again; my practice as a jeweler continues to be a way for me to stimulate this healing by devoting myself to storytelling.

Another artist of that century, writer Giovanni Boccaccio, survived the Plague. His masterpiece, The Decameron, was inspired by the plague and by his knowledge of Dante’s Divine Comedy, known at the time as La Commedia. A modern sense of wit and intelligence are celebrated in Boccaccio’s work, a distinct move away from the superstition and religion-centric works of the Middle Ages. TheDecameron, (meaning ten days), is a collection of 100 novellas told by ten young Florentines who have taken refuge from the plague in a villa in the hills of above the city. Each “day” contains ten stories around a different concept of love, from platonic to bawdy to spiritual. If you can pick just one to read, my favorite is the story of Federigo degli Alberighi and his falcon from Day Five, a tremendous story of true love.

Boccaccio was influenced by Dante’s Divine Comedy and in my mind, it’s likely that Lorenzetti was too. Boccaccio actually wrote an early commentary on The Divine Comedy, and many of his characters and stories in the Decameron bear reference to characters in The Comedy. The celebration of love in its many forms is a joyous counter to the suffering of the Plague, and reflects the closing of Dante’s epic poem. 

Dante Alighieri wrote The Divine Comedy in “the vernacular”—in Italian, instead of in the Latin that was reserved for all writing at the time. He wanted it to be available to all, not just to the elite. Originally called “The Comedy”, it became immediately popular. Today, it tends to be a lifelong study for literary scholars and forced reading for reluctant Italian high school students. It is an endeavor to take on but fascinating in its rewards. There is so much analysis of the work that even just exploring some of the vast and varied commentary is a journey into the massive themes of humanity that the author took on.

In a very small nutshell, The Divine Comedy depicts an intense journey from the darkness to the light. Dante the author casts himself as the protagonist and illustrates every detail of his travels in 99 cantos – 33 each for the Inferno, Purgatory, and Paradise. There is no word or line that is arbitrary. Each word and turn of phrase contains rich and often hidden meaning. 

The first and last lines of the poem ring with particular significance in this year of our own 2020 pandemic.

Nel mezzo del cammin di nostra vita
mi ritrovai per una selva oscura
che la diritta via era smarrita

Basically he’s saying something like this: “In the middle of life, I found myself in a dark forest and the path was blocked.” Does this sound familiar?

Dante ends his journey as he emerges from Paradiso into blinding light:

A l’alta fantasia qui mancò possa;
Ma già volgeva il mio disio e ‘l velle,
Si come rota ch’igualmente è mossa,
l’amor che move il sole e l’altre stelle.

Dante is overwhelmed by the heavens, the light, the pervasive good, and the fact that “love moves the sun and all the other stars” —Love conquers all. 

In 2020, we wander in a “dark forest”. So many things are difficult right now but we must act and create and sustain our hope and belief that love and our good efforts will move the universe in the right direction. Artists and poets are well represented in the Divine Comedy. Dante believed that art, music, language—beauty of all kinds—assist in personal and societal transformation. 

Dante structured his vision of Paradise on the Ptolemaic concept of the universe—the same design as my Tolomeo pendant. The union of art and science infuses my contemplation of both the Celestial and natural worlds.

The Tolomeo

The Tolomeo

In its history, jewelry was considered symbolic before becoming ornamental. With my rock crystal amulets, I return over and over again to the inherent meaning within a beautiful jewel. The Astrid Amulet is inscribed with Dante’s last words from the Divine Comedy. It symbolizes arriving at a positive outcome, a good end to a journey. This engraving is also inscribed in a bracelet and on a ring. The message is hidden in both of these jewels. The bracelet is also inscribed with symbols of the planets from Earth to Saturn as per the Tolomeo, and Dante’s journey through Paradise. The Astrid Ring opens like a mini astronomical model of the universe and can be worn in this way as a ring or pendant. 

Dante was a capable mathematician and had a profound respect for the scientific concepts of his day. For this collection, I have delved back into early astronomical diagrams. I’ve creates these cosmic maps as backgrounds for my latest pieces, so that together these instruments may help you to navigate your own journey. The jewels are meant to be beautiful, symbolic charms representing the full spectrum of color of the universe and finally the metaphorical bright light of new beginnings. 

I use the term Horizon and Sorcerer. Horizon refers to what waits ahead as far as you can see. Sorcerer refers to the magic of the imagination, creativity and art that will carry us all forward.

Meaningful jewels for meaningful times.

I hope you’ll enjoy the history, beauty and meaning behind these jewels as you proceed on your own cosmic journey.

An evolution of Amulets

 This engraving is also inscribed in a bracelet and on a ring. The message is hidden in both of these jewels. The bracelet is also inscribed with symbols of the planets from Earth to Saturn as per the Tolomeo, and Dante’s journey through Paradise. The Astrid Ring opens like a mini astronomical model of the universe and can be worn in this way as a ring or pendant.

The Astrid Bracelet & Ring

The Astrid Amulet

The Astrid Ring

Dante was a capable mathematician and had a profound respect for the scientific concepts of his day. For this collection, I have delved back into early astronomical diagrams. I’ve creates these cosmic maps as backgrounds for my latest pieces, so that together these instruments may help you to navigate your own journey. The jewels are meant to be beautiful, symbolic charms representing the full spectrum of color of the universe and finally the metaphorical bright light of new beginnings. I use the term Horizon and Sorcerer. Horizon refers to what waits ahead as far as you can see. Sorcerer refers to the magic of the imagination, creativity and art that will carry us all forward.

The Sorcerer Pendant

Meaningful jewels for meaningful times. 

I hope you’ll enjoy the history, beauty and meaning behind these jewels as you proceed on your own cosmic journey.