Dear Friends,


If you are in Florence now or planning to go, I wanted to share a few of my personal favorite places. These places make up part of the fabric of my day-to-day life there. I go back to them over and over again, in between working with my artisans and living in the hills.

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I. Cultural Treasures


Home to some of my favorite masterpieces, including Donatello’s bronze David, vibrant Della Robbia ceramics, and the famous competition panels by Ghiberti and Brunelleschi for the Baptistery doors. A must for anyone who loves the power of sculpture. This was my sons’ favorite when they were small, filled with wonderful mythological stories.


Giardino Bardini

Via de’ Bardi, 1 | Open daily 10am to 7pm


This hidden garden, perched just below the old city walls in the Oltrarno, offers one of the most intimate views of Florence. At the top, a lovely loggia invites you to pause for a refreshment or aperitivo. A Bardini ticket also grants entry to the Boboli Gardens behind the Pitti Palace, making it a perfect way to meander back into town. I love this garden in every season, and wandering through Boboli is one of my favorite commutes.


La Specola (Museo di Storia Naturale)

Via Romana, 17 | Open 9am-5pm (closed Mondays & reservations required to see all the wax models)


A fascinating, slightly dusty collection of taxidermy specimens, but what sets La Specola apart are the extraordinary wax anatomical models. Created by jewelers when it was forbidden to study cadavers, these models map out the nervous, circulatory, and digestive systems in astonishing, sometimes unnerving detail. For a lighter experience, don’t miss the exquisite wax botanical models arranged in Ginori vases. A true curiosity and hidden gem of Florence.
 
II. Where to Eat and Drink


Cinque e Cinque

Piazza della Passera, 1 | Lunch: 1 to 2:30pm; Dinner: 7:30 to 10pm (closed Monday & Tuesday)


A cozy spot in the heart of the Oltrarno, perfect for a relaxed, simple lunch or dinner.  It offers a non-traditional Italian menu of vegetarian dishes.  This is typically where you’ll find me at lunch when I’m in town working with my artigiani. The Focaccia with Stracchino, a Ligurian specialty, is not to be missed (and secret: you can ask for a small one). And I don’t really have a sweet tooth, but here I love the Biancomangiare con Cioccolato, basically a panna cotta made from almond milk with a dark chocolate sauce – divine! Say Ciao! to Silvio, the owner, for me.


Dalla Lola

Via della Chiesa, 16R | Lunch: Tuesday to Saturday, 12 to 2:30pm; Dinner: Wednesday to Friday, 7:30 to 10:30pm (Closed Sunday & Monday)


A newer favorite in the Oltrarno, opened by the offspring of Camillo, one of my longtime go-to spots. The team at Dalla Lola offers fresh, seasonal cooking in a lively space not far from Santo Spirito. I love the miso gnocchi, an innovative departure that somehow still feels right at home in Florence.


Il Santino

Via Santo Spirito, 60/R | Open daily 11am to 11pm


The love child of the fabulous Santo Bevitore next door, Il Santino is ideal if you’ve missed the strict Florentine lunch hour or need a casual aperitivo spot. They serve delicious light bites. A good stop between visits to the frescoes at the Carmine or Santo Spirito. Lunch time at most restaurants is from 1:00 to about 2:30 PM — Basta!


Brac

Via dei Vagellai, 18/R | Lunch:12:30 to 3pm. Dinner: 7:30 to 11pm (Closed Tuesday)


Not your typical Florentine trattoria. Brac is a bookstore and vegetarian restaurant on the Duomo side of the river, near the Galileo Science Museum. I love the fresh, creative dishes and remarkably poetic wine list; one of the owners has a literary flair. It’s an artsy, imaginative haven, a perfect break in a day of discovery.

I’d love to hear if you have a chance to visit any of these places. Florence is where my heart is, in many ways my true home, and each of these spots is part of my personal experience there. I hope you’ll enjoy them as much as I do.

Live life beautifully,


XO Temple

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